Day 1
Tbilisi
Our Airbnb host's husband Guga picked us up at the airport at 3:15 a.m. and drove us to the apartment, (which had already been stocked with a lovely little pitcher of Georgian wine)
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/9443812
By the time we got settled in, it was 5:30 and we were too excited to try and rest so we headed out to walk around the town.
It was the best thing ever because it was very quiet and dark, but the sun was just starting to come up and change the light in the sky so everything was bathed in a peachy glow.
It was the best thing ever because it was very quiet and dark, but the sun was just starting to come up and change the light in the sky so everything was bathed in a peachy glow.
At a nearby 24-hour restaurant, we had our first khachapuri
Walked around some more for a couple of hours,
and then came back to the apartment to enjoy the Fabulous Terrace
and rest for a little bit before meeting up with the Free Tbilisi Walking Tour.
Walked around some more for a couple of hours,
and then came back to the apartment to enjoy the Fabulous Terrace
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| This kitty belonged to someone in the building and we saw her every day. On our last day, she was sitting on the hood of Guga's car when we were leaving for the airport |
and rest for a little bit before meeting up with the Free Tbilisi Walking Tour.
It was OK, but a little too much history, and the group was big so we had to do a lot of waiting around for people to take photos.
The tour brought us through lots of touristy areas that were frankly not our style. We made a lame excuse to the leader of that we had to go, and then we walked around a little while on our own.
We got back to our apartment, had a glass of wine,
and then went down to have dinner at a restaurant about five steps away from our front door.
We finished dining at about 6 p.m. We went home and had a very early bedtime. It had been about 53 hours since we'd slept.
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| Please allow my hair to demonstrate the fact that it was very, very windy |
and then went down to have dinner at a restaurant about five steps away from our front door.
We finished dining at about 6 p.m. We went home and had a very early bedtime. It had been about 53 hours since we'd slept.
Day 2
Tbilisi/ Davit-Gareja
After breakfast at the same 24-hour restaurant (which we nicknamed Perkins)
got picked up by our driver, Levan, (arranged for us by our airbnb host) to go to Davit Gareja. While only a 70 kilometer drive, it took over 2 hours because the second half was very rutted and potholed.
We were the first group to arrive, so we had the whole place to ourselves for the first 45 minutes. The weather was absolutely ideal: 60 degrees F., overcast and no wind. There was some occasional drizzle, but not enough to make things dangerous.
At one point, Bhob opted out of going on a long, vertiginous portion of the hike, so Levan and I proceeded. Apparently, there were some structures with icons painted on the inside, but we did not find them. We walked along a ridge that was Georgia on one side in Azerbaijan on the other.
When we got back down to the main monastery area we met up with Bhob again.
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| The dog followed us all the way back to our apartment, where it was spooked by the neighbor cat |
got picked up by our driver, Levan, (arranged for us by our airbnb host) to go to Davit Gareja. While only a 70 kilometer drive, it took over 2 hours because the second half was very rutted and potholed.
We were the first group to arrive, so we had the whole place to ourselves for the first 45 minutes. The weather was absolutely ideal: 60 degrees F., overcast and no wind. There was some occasional drizzle, but not enough to make things dangerous.
At one point, Bhob opted out of going on a long, vertiginous portion of the hike, so Levan and I proceeded. Apparently, there were some structures with icons painted on the inside, but we did not find them. We walked along a ridge that was Georgia on one side in Azerbaijan on the other.
When we got back down to the main monastery area we met up with Bhob again.
One of the songs on the radio during the return trip was a watered down, jazzy, soul-destroying cover of "Waterloo". I had always thought of that song as being indestructible.
Oh, how wrong I was.
After getting back to the city, we took the funicular to the top of one of the hills overlooking our apartment.
Oh, how wrong I was.
After getting back to the city, we took the funicular to the top of one of the hills overlooking our apartment.
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| Iranian women without hijab put the "Fun" in funicular! |
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| The radio tower that looks so glorious when it's lit up at night is a bit shabbier up close in the daylight |
Had dinner at a restaurant about a 30 second walk from home. It was amazing. Traditional Georgian food and wine that was made from scratch, reasonably priced and served with love.
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| On the left of the board is churchkhela. The traditional food gods may strike me down for saying this, but the texture is very similar to a Twizzler |
Day 3
Tbilisi
Spent the day taking public transportation to find some interesting architecture that Bhob had researched before the trip.
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| Hey, Mickey! That's your doppelganger towards the back of the bus |
Then went to a part of town we hadn't ventured into yet to look for a shop that sold items from the Soviet era. The shop was in a complex that was like the NE Minneapolis of Tbilisi.
While the complex was a bit hipsterish for us, I really loved the neighborhood it was in.
Had snacks and drinks at an overpriced, girly hotel restaurant (it was actually really good!)
As enchanting as the previous night's dinner was, this was utterly disenchanting.
We shall never speak of it again (except when we post our eviscerating review on Tripadvisor).
Day 4
Kazbegi/Stepansminda
Took the metro to the bus station which is more like a flea market with a bunch of vehicles for hire. Did the thing you're never supposed to do and went with the first hustler to approach us. We were soon joined by a young man from Thailand named Best who is currently living in Germany working on his PhD in Geography (studying the interaction of migration, money remittance and climate change). Then a South Korean couple came and took charge to negotiate with the driver to take us to Kazbegi right away instead of waiting for a sixth passenger.
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| Lots of honey for sale, not just here but all over the whole country |
Got into town and after a bit of confusion caused by the faulty Airbnb map, our host's brother-in-law (who resembled a non-threatening Michael Shannon) graciously picked us up and brought us to the guest house.
7 Sisters Kushashvili Guest House
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| The view from our terrace |
After a lovely cup of coffee and little pancakes with homemade plum jam, we went to check out Gergeti Church, the main attraction in town. Our original intention was just to get to the trailhead, to see how long it would take to get there. Then we said "Well, let's just go up the trail a little bit and see how far we get."
We ended up going all the way to the top.
After shlepping my hiking boots all the way across the Atlantic, I hadn't thought to put them on before this walk. Ditto on the sunscreen. Oh well...
We ended up going all the way to the top.
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| Wait, you mean we could have gotten a ride to the top!? Oh, man... |
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| Sometimes, stunning mountain views can't compete with checking in on your Tinder |
After shlepping my hiking boots all the way across the Atlantic, I hadn't thought to put them on before this walk. Ditto on the sunscreen. Oh well...
...
Had dinner at Khevi Restaurant,
then went for an evening constitutional, up Main Street
then up a brand new paved road above our guest house.
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| Hop off. Take photo. Hop back on. |
then went for an evening constitutional, up Main Street
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| Not unusual. Except in the two largest cities, cows are everywhere. Seriously. |
then up a brand new paved road above our guest house.
Day 5
Kazbegi/Stepansminda
Started the day with breakfast at the guest house, then a walk on the same paved road we walked on last night. Encountered a solo Norwegian traveler with the same predilections as us (yes to less-traveled cities, No to sandy beaches).
More walking. Ran into Best, from Thailand.
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| High school |
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| Disused gondola to the monastery |
Walked up to the cemetery.
Back into town, then drinks at L-Gremi
and more walking.
After dinner at Green Sheep, darkness removed all of our visual navigational cues, so we got a bit turned around and it took us a while to find our way home.
Day 6
Kazbegi/Stepansminda/Arsha
Started the day with an uninspired breakfast at a halal restaurant that had the TV set to a channel that played non-stop videos of women dancing in their underwear.
We had kind of run out of things to do in town, so we opted for an easy, flat walk to the town of Arsha, about 6 km South. It fulfilled my primary travel criteria of taking my daily walk somewhere other than the street I live on.
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| The photo does not depict how insanely windy it was. |
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| All I hear all day long is Arsha, Arsha, Arsha!!! |
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| This little gal followed us quite a bit along the trail and into town. After lunch, we bought some sausage at the mini-mart for her, but of course by then she was nowhere to be found. |
Don't ask.
Returned to Khevi Restaurant for drinks and food.
Fascinating Fact: Our day started and ended by hearing "I'm a Survivor" by Destiny's Child
Day 7
Gori
Caught the early marshrutka from Stepansminda to Tbilisi and enjoyed the scenic ride back.
Navigated the nightmare that is Didube "Bus Station"
to catch the marshrutka to Gori. Outside the Stalin Museum, our host picked us up and brought us to...
to catch the marshrutka to Gori. Outside the Stalin Museum, our host picked us up and brought us to...
Nukri Guest House
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| Super Host Nukri! I didn't get my own photo of him, so I lifted this from his FB page. |
It was raining, so we passed the time most pleasantly with libations and kitties.
When it cleared up, Nukri drove us to Uplistsikhe.
Then up to Gorijvari church
Walked around the neighborhood of the guesthouse
and gorged ourselves on an epic traditional Georgian dinner at the guest house, after which we had a great chat with Giorgi, Nukri's 22 year old son, a medical student in Tbilisi.
As I write this, I am relishing the rare opportunity to sit outside in the evening, with the perfect temperature (62 F.) and no mosquitos. It is going to be hard to drag myself inside and not sleep on the hammock.
Day 8
Kutaisi
Took an early morning walk around Gori
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| I don't want to hear any more of your Karaoke Bar B.S.!! |
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| Because Dustin Hoffman= Glamor |
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| This dog was so tenacious, s/he stole our hearts, so we bought her/him some sausages |
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| Public service center/wedding hall |
After an epic breakfast (which included cabbage!), said goodbye to our beloved Nukri Guesthouse.
Got a ride to the highway to catch a marshrutka to Kutaisi. I developed a bit of a crush on the driver, who reminded me of a 70s era Richard Belzer. After a hot 2 1/2 hour ride with 20 of our closest new friends, got picked up by our host Ika, who brought us to...
Villa Gelati
After dropping off our stuff, he brought us to Motsameta
Then Bagrat Cathedral
and a stroll around Kutaisi
Relaxed at the guest house for awhile
then had a phenomenal dinner, made by Nino, Ika's highly educated and exceptionally friendly mother.
then had a phenomenal dinner, made by Nino, Ika's highly educated and exceptionally friendly mother.
Day 9
Kutaisi
Started the day with a short walk to Gelati Monastery.
After a ginormous breakfast, Ika drove us around
to four of the area's major attractions.
Sataplia
Prometheus Cave
Martvili Canyon
The main activity here is a boat ride. We got in, and the guy handed Bhob an oar. Bhob hadn't done any kind of paddling for 43 years.
The main activity here is a boat ride. We got in, and the guy handed Bhob an oar. Bhob hadn't done any kind of paddling for 43 years.
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| We ran into these rock and roll French folks at every single place we visited on this day (plus we saw them in Kutaisi the day before)
Okatse Canyon
Photos simply do not do it justice.
      
The power went out at the guesthouse for about 20 minutes (insert Vicki Lawrence lyrics here), so we started our dinner with candlelight. We were a bit disappointed when the lights came back on.
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Day 10
Kutaisi
The day started out rainy and chilly, and we'd covered most of the outdoorsy, nature-y stuff in the area, so we spent the day in Kutaisi.Checked out the mall
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| Movie theater rest rooms |
and the history museum
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| They're really missing an opportunity to make a reproduction of this that you can stick your face into for a photo
Walked through the park where guys who used to be big shots in the Soviet era are still gathering to discuss the issues of the day
Got a proper espresso and macchiato and made a new friend
 
Stumbled across the green market
 
Lounged on the upper terrace at Dunkin Donuts
   
Had a drink at an ambiguous cafe
 
and in between each stop, just walked around and looked at stuff.
I realize that the next few photos repeat themselves, but every time I try to remove the duplicates, it cuts the entire day's post, so I am just going to surrender to redundancy.
              
We had seen this young lady earlier when we were having coffee near the stray dogs, and she completely flipped out when one followed her. I must emphasize that the dogs in Georgia are very mild mannered.
After another huge dinner, packed for the following morning's departure.
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Day 11
Mestia/Svaneti
Said goodbye to Villa Gelati
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| Nino and two Turkish guests |
and caught the marshrutka to Mestia. What was expected to be a 5 1/2 hour drive took 4 hours and 20 minutes thanks to the mad skills of our driver.
Walked to...
Bapsha Guesthouse
checked in, then walked around the area.
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| Police station |
Did a harrowing climb up a tower
Had dinner at a delicious but slow restaurant, then headed back to the guest house for bed.
Day 12
Mestia/Svaneti
Took a short morning walk before breakfast
Walked five minutes up the street to...
Guest House Data
Dropped off our bags and attempted to find the abandoned Soviet era alpine lodge as recommended in the Bradt guide. It turned out to be another really poorly described hike ( a la the Turkish village near Demir Kapija in Macedonia). After a few false (though beautiful) starts,
we did eventually find it.
Continued along the trail beyond it for awhile ( it turns out that it is the beginning of a popular four-day hike to the town of Ushguli)
before turning around to go back to town for a cold shot of chacha on an appealing terrace.
Returned to the guest house for a bit before going to Old House Cafe for dinner.
We had seen posters all over town for a locally made film showing 5 times per day at a hotel on the main street. For some reason, we had assumed that it was free, so we went to check it out. It wasn't free, so we went next door to a coffee bar. Bhob got a double Turkish coffee (and 90 minutes later was totally snoozing) and we both had cream puffs.
Returned to the guest house for a bit before going to Old House Cafe for dinner.
We had seen posters all over town for a locally made film showing 5 times per day at a hotel on the main street. For some reason, we had assumed that it was free, so we went to check it out. It wasn't free, so we went next door to a coffee bar. Bhob got a double Turkish coffee (and 90 minutes later was totally snoozing) and we both had cream puffs.
Day 13
Mestia/Svaneti
After a glorious breakfast
headed out to Chalaadi Glacier. The walk to the trailhead took about two hours. It went past the airport, which was on Bhob's " must see" list.
Because the way to the trail head is now a utility road for building a water pipeline, it was flat and dusty.
The trail itself was woodsy and lovely. The beginning required traversing a rickety bridge. It took about an hour to get to the end of the trail, in sight of the actual glacier.
The Bradt guide described this walk as "easy and popular", but we officially got our asses handed to us. The temperature never got above 64 F, but the sun was so strong, my jeggings and lightweight Capilene shirt felt like snow pants and a parka.
When we got back to town, we treated ourselves to ice cream sandwiches from the mini-mart (mass-produced confections never tasted so good!) and then dinner at a place called Rea Dessert, which had exactly two dessert options, one of which was called Chinese Cake. Of course we had to order it; it was layers of rich pastry cream with cookie crumbles and strawberries. It was really good, but the name reminded me of something from a church cookbook.
headed out to Chalaadi Glacier. The walk to the trailhead took about two hours. It went past the airport, which was on Bhob's " must see" list.
Because the way to the trail head is now a utility road for building a water pipeline, it was flat and dusty.
The trail itself was woodsy and lovely. The beginning required traversing a rickety bridge. It took about an hour to get to the end of the trail, in sight of the actual glacier.
The Bradt guide described this walk as "easy and popular", but we officially got our asses handed to us. The temperature never got above 64 F, but the sun was so strong, my jeggings and lightweight Capilene shirt felt like snow pants and a parka.
When we got back to town, we treated ourselves to ice cream sandwiches from the mini-mart (mass-produced confections never tasted so good!) and then dinner at a place called Rea Dessert, which had exactly two dessert options, one of which was called Chinese Cake. Of course we had to order it; it was layers of rich pastry cream with cookie crumbles and strawberries. It was really good, but the name reminded me of something from a church cookbook.
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| My new go-to meal: Beans in a Pot and mchadi |
Day 14
???????
OK.
Today requires some explaining. Our original itinerary had us taking a 45-minute flight from Mestia to Tbilisi on Vanilla Sky Airlines. I had contacted them a year ago and was told "Oh yeah, no problem! Just go to the website a month before the day you want to fly and book your flight". I did that and no tickets were available. An email to the airline was responded to with " We haven't released our October schedule yet".
In the meantime, I looked at reviews on Google and Tripadvisor, which revealed the disheartening truth: Vanilla Sky tickets are always "sold out" the nanosecond they become "available", presumably to travel agents and tour companies.
I held out hope that maybe we could get tickets, but I came up with a couple of contingency plans, all involving the generous last-minute free cancellation policy of booking.com.
Needless to say, we didn't get to fly.
So.
We caught the 8 a.m. marshrutka from Mestia to Kutaisi, which gave us an entire afternoon to rest and luxuriate. The ride itself was 4 1/2 hours of queasiness for Bhob, and core-strengthening for me ( no seatbelts on those mountain switchback roads meant engaging little- used muscles to keep from falling out of my seat).
The driver seemed to have only one CD, so we got to hear about three repetitions of it. I'm calling it "The Best of Georgian Sunday Night TV Variety Show, Plus The Occasional Gwen Stefani Track".
I loves me some cheesy Eastern European folksy pop music, but this may have cured me of it for a really, really long time.
We needed a place to stay that was near-ish to the train station, so I found one for $15 in the very non-touristy part of town.
As luck would have it, the weather was pleasant (72 and overcast), so we walked to a nearby park
which was very peaceful.
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| Yes, only two cars, and the music on the speakers was Zamfir's version of El Condor Pasa |
Had an early dinner at Baraqa Restaurant and had a very nice server who reminded me of a short George Clooney.
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| This was hanging on the wall of the restaurant, where we heard that same Gwen Stefani track |
Day 15
Telavi
After one last walk around the peaceful park
took a cab to the railway station way the heck out in the middle of nowhere to catch the 10 a.m. fast train to Tbilisi. My inner capitalist reared its ugly head as I looked at all of the opportunities for overpriced coffee and snacks
I had the noteworthy experience of using The Filthiest "Restroom" In Georgia.
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| I may have to put my shoes in an autoclave after this one |
We had seats in first class, and it was a relaxing journey (though it felt pretty slow for a fast train). Arrived in Tbilisi around 2 p.m., took a metro to the station where we were told we could get a taxi to Telavi. A Guy With A Car agreed to take us for 36 lari (about $13 for a 90 minute drive (which was gorgeous).
Arrived at...
Guest House Omsi
took a $1 taxi to town, had dinner at Bravos,
walked back to the Guesthouse and went to bed.
Day 16
Telavi
Woke to a lovely sunrise
Telavi is right in the middle of the main wine producing region of the country, and is generally used as a jumping off point for winery tours. However, after two days of travel across the country, we didn't want to do any more driving. So after another monumental breakfast, we set out for a day of walking around the town.
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| Lots of beekeeping/ honey production in Georgia |
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| 900 year-old plane tree |
Stopped at the fanciest rooftop cafe in the middle of the most touristy part of town for an iced coffee float.
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| Even in the middle of Sucker's Row, our treats cost $3 total |
It is worth mentioning at this point that Telavi is really, really, really touristy.
Not our style.
At all.
But we are here for the day, and determined to make the most of it.
Returned to the guesthouse and sat on the terrace for a while. Bhob had a lie-down, and I had a very enjoyable visit with Davit, our host. He graciously offered me samples of his homemade wine and chacha, and we talked politics, travel, life in Georgia, life in America, his career as a trade union lawyer and guest house host. It was the highlight of my time in Telavi.
Walked back down to the town center for a light supper at Starz Cafe.
Day 17
Sighnaghi
Lazy start to the day, as our next destination ( a 1 1/2-hour drive away) had a check in time of 1 PM, and check out time at Omsi was Noon. Short, cloudy morning walk and a late (9 AM!) breakfast.
Treated ourselves to a direct taxi ride to our next destination...
Treated ourselves to a direct taxi ride to our next destination...
Guest House Maria
Sighnaghi is a hilltop town that was allegedly engineered to be the Honeymoon Capital Of Georgia. If geography is destiny, there is no way that this place wouldn't become a tourist trap.
However, being welcomed with pitchers of wine allowed me to view the town with a fondness free of irony.
Our host, Maria, is a treasure. This guest house is a trip! In most guesthouses, the guest is #1. Here, it's like we really are guest in someone's house, and it's pretty special.
Walked around a bit, ate on a terrace
and retired early. Maria misunderstood my request for coffee in the morning and brought coffee and wine to the room. Oh well....
Day 18
Sighnaghi
When you book two nights in a hilltop town in mid-October, a year before you can see a weather report, you are rolling the dice.
We lost.
The morning was so drizzly and misty, we couldn't see a half block ahead, let alone the sweeping vistas of the Caucasus. So it was off to the only game in town, the Sighnaghi National Museum. It was small and we had a lot of time to fill, so we looked at every single pottery shard.
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| The museum had a whole room devoted to the painter Niko Pirosmanashvili |
Bhob returned to the Guesthouse to rest, and I walked around. It being such a tourist trap, there aren't any undiscovered corners, so I just did my best to avoid the throngs.
It was so damp and chilly, we wanted to find someplace for dinner that had a wood fire going and was quiet. Mama Papuri fit the bill, and it was the second closest restaurant to our guesthouse.
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| Happiness is a 5-gallon jug of chacha |
An amendment: Further research has revealed that this isn't so much the Niagara Falls of Georgia as the Las Vegas, as (allegedly) the registry is open all day, every day, all year, so you can come here on a whim and get married any old time you like!
Day 19
Tbilisi
Took a walk on yet another foggy morning. This time I had a bit more solitude.
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| I love that Rolling Stones song with the trumpet and barrel organ |
After one more monumental breakfast (during which our host was having some sort of ongoing loud "discussion" with several female members of the family), caught the 11 a.m. marshrutka to Tbilisi. The driver looked like a Georgian Norman Fell. Checked back in to the same apartment where we started. We were so tired of heavy Georgian food, we headed to the sushi restaurant at the Radisson Blu. We nearly wept to see steamed broccoli.
Our table neighbors weren't nearly as excited.
Picked up provisions for the next day, then went to the part of Old Tbilisi that we didn't get to on the first go around. It was (quelle surprise) a tourist nightmare.
Cool buildings on the way, though
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| Persian style! |
Went to the bakery and a nearby restaurant/shop for more goodies (yes, one of the goodies was homemade wine)
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| This wasn't the bakery, just an interesting doorway I passed on the way |
Then settled in for the night.
Day 20
Tbilisi
Took an early morning walk. The touristy spots are much more charming when they're deserted.
We'd already covered many parts of town to our East, so we thought we would take a look at the part to the West, on the other side of the hill, about an hour's walk away. It was such a pleasure to do a long stretch on wide sidewalks with plenty of elbow room. Even if we weren't the only tourists, it was nice to feel like we were.
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| Because some days you just can't be bothered to brush your own hair |
We arbitrarily headed toward Vake Park, which looked like nothing more than a splotch of green on the map, but turned out to be a huge, beautifully maintained park in the super fancy neighborhood.
Spent a couple of hours there, then headed back down for one last round of souvenir and provision shopping, then packing our bags and early to bed for a wicked early airport ride.
Day 21
Depart
Our Airbnb host was outside the door promptly at 3 a.m. (and I could hear the voice of my niece Allie when she was little, saying "It's still nighttime!").
28 hours later, we were home.
Random Observations
When passing within sight of a church, a LOT of people make the sign of the cross three times.
90% of the male singers played on a taxi's or marshrutka's radio could be described as "the Georgian Leonard Cohen". The other 10% are the actual Leonard Cohen.
Without exception, in every single big city and tiny town, the most modern, architecturally freaky building is the public services hall.
You can always count on Wendy's for a no-cost, clean, hassle-free restroom. Kind of like Starbucks in the U.S.
Without exception, in every single big city and tiny town, the most modern, architecturally freaky building is the public services hall.
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| Gori |
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| Kazbegi |
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| Tbilisi |
You can always count on Wendy's for a no-cost, clean, hassle-free restroom. Kind of like Starbucks in the U.S.
There seems to be a requirement for all mini- marts to devote their front window display to booze.
FAQs
Why Georgia?
For once, our choice of destination had nothing to do with
movies*. It was inspired by music and food.
The Music: My first encounter with Georgian music was over
30 years ago, but I didn’t realize it was Georgian music. There is a section in
the Kate Bush song Hello Earth, from the 1985 album Hounds of Love that
is utterly compelling and haunting, unlike anything I had ever heard before.
Fast forward to about 1:05 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0S0zNFzK_ns
A few years later, while watching Werner Herzog’s 1979 film Nosferatu,
I heard it again. It turns out that it was a Georgian folk song called Tsinstkaro.
I had always assumed that it was yet another amazing thing to spring from
the genius mind of Ms. Bush, but it was via this film that Kate Bush discovered
it. After that, I became obsessed with Georgian folk music, and found a wealth
of polyphonic singing and even more otherworldly tunes. This music is very different from the cheesy pop stuff we heard on marshrutkas and in restaurants.
Try these links, or just go to youtube, search for Hamlet Gonashvili and prepare to be blown away.
Try these links, or just go to youtube, search for Hamlet Gonashvili and prepare to be blown away.
The Food:
In 1994, I bought a pressure cooker cookbook called Great
Vegetarian Cooking Under Pressure by Lorna Sass. It is one of the best
cookbooks I have ever owned, and over the years, I made literally every single
recipe in it. Except one: Georgian Kidney Beans With Walnut Coriander Sauce.
For some reason, it sounded unappealing and just did not call out to me. Then
around 2010, I must have been in an adventurous mood, because I thought “Why
not?”. I made it, the heavens opened, the angels sang, and I declared out loud
(to no one in particular) “This is the greatest thing I have ever eaten in my
life!!”. After that, I became obsessed with Georgian cooking, and found a
wealth of flavors, usually familiar herbs and spices put together in unfamiliar
ways. And walnuts. Lots of walnuts.
Then a few years ago, from a list of gluten-free restaurant cards in 54 languages, I saw the Georgian alphabet, and that
pretty much sealed the deal.
P.S. Bhob’s first awareness of Georgia was from this:
*That being said, we have seen some good films from Georgia, none of which could be a contender for Feel-Good Movie of the Year:
In Bloom
Tsameti (do NOT watch the American remake)
Tangerines (not to be confused with the outstanding holiday film Tangerine from 2015, filmed in LA)
How was the weather?
In Bloom
Tsameti (do NOT watch the American remake)
Tangerines (not to be confused with the outstanding holiday film Tangerine from 2015, filmed in LA)
Did you get to see any live performances of traditional music?
Sadly, no. The opportunity didn't present itself. We did occasionally hear recorded traditional music, and in Gelati, we could hear the sound of the hotel band wafting across the valley; they would play a traditional tune, and then launch into some generic lounge music.Did you eat any interesting foods?
Sure! One of my favorites turned out to be mchadi, a simple corn cake that tasted like a thick fried corn tortilla.
We had lots of kachapuri, a ubiquitous bread and cheese thing that could taste like a flour tortilla quesadilla, cheese stuffed pizza crust, a grilled cheese sandwich in pita bread or croissant filled with salty cheese (not unlike an Albanian byrek).
It was on every restaurant menu, served for breakfast ( and sometimes supper) at several guesthouses, and small versions could be purchased to-go about every 3 feet in every city and town.
Lobio, which was usually on menus as Beans in a Pot, was a little different at each restaurant. It always had red beans and cilantro, served bubbling hot in a clay pot.
Sometimes it had a dusting of finely chopped walnuts, sometimes sliced raw onion and occasionally reminded me of Cuban black bean soup.
 |
| I only managed to get one of the croissant ones on our penultimate day in country. Oh man.... |
It was on every restaurant menu, served for breakfast ( and sometimes supper) at several guesthouses, and small versions could be purchased to-go about every 3 feet in every city and town.
Lobio, which was usually on menus as Beans in a Pot, was a little different at each restaurant. It always had red beans and cilantro, served bubbling hot in a clay pot.
Sometimes it had a dusting of finely chopped walnuts, sometimes sliced raw onion and occasionally reminded me of Cuban black bean soup.
One thing we saw everywhere was chirchkela, threaded nuts dipped in a combination of grape juice and flour. They look like candles. One driver referred to them as "Georgian Snickers". They reminded me more of Twizzlers.
And what about the wine?
It was all over the map. Wine of the same name in 5 different places could have 5 differing levels of sweetness or dryness. When it's good, it's amazing. At worst it tastes like Welch's.
Could a person eat a ketogenic diet in Georgia?
Yes! Most dinner menus have salads and meat.
Just don't get breakfast at a guest house; they're very carbocentric. I went through a whole bottle of these:
How was the weather?
Great! In the mountains, the low temperatures were in the upper 30s, with highs in the 60s. Everywhere else, lows in the 50s and highs in the 70s. The hottest it got was around 80.
We had a day of intermittent rain in Gori (which stopped long enough for us to visit Uplistsikhe, and then returned long enough to give us those beautiful rainbows at the church), and a misty morning in Sighnaghi.
How were your flights?
Great! No delays, and long enough layovers to make our connections.
I love flying Turkish Airlines for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that I got to watch this 4 times and didn't get sick of it:
Used t the US Customs Mobile Passport to breeze through customs and passport control.
We had a 7 hour layover at the Istanbul airport in both directions. We splurged on a Primeclass lounge access pass, which made all of the difference in the world. Unlimited food, beverages and electrical outlets, and respite from the nerve-jangling effects of the constant announcements and movement of the 10,000 other travelers. I recommend it, though because it is run by Turkish Airlines, I suspect that they purposely create itineraries with long Ataturk layovers to encourage sales of the access cards.
What movies did you watch on the planes?
On the way there, I Feel Pretty (loved it!) and the obligatory Will Smith feature* was Focus. I also watched a documentary/ reality show that investigated whether or not certain skin care products really work, and listened to a Cocteau Twins album.
On the way back, the Will Smith move was Collateral Beauty. Since there were no Taken movies, I tried to watch a Liam Neeson film called The Commuter, but I bailed after 20 minutes. Also watched Oceans 12, Oceans 13, an episode of Cesar to the Rescue, and listened to Kraftwerk Man Machine.
Helpful Hint: If you want to fall asleep on a plane, watch the 3-hour Westminster Kennel Club coverage.
Great! No delays, and long enough layovers to make our connections.
I love flying Turkish Airlines for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that I got to watch this 4 times and didn't get sick of it:
Used t the US Customs Mobile Passport to breeze through customs and passport control.
We had a 7 hour layover at the Istanbul airport in both directions. We splurged on a Primeclass lounge access pass, which made all of the difference in the world. Unlimited food, beverages and electrical outlets, and respite from the nerve-jangling effects of the constant announcements and movement of the 10,000 other travelers. I recommend it, though because it is run by Turkish Airlines, I suspect that they purposely create itineraries with long Ataturk layovers to encourage sales of the access cards.
What movies did you watch on the planes?
On the way there, I Feel Pretty (loved it!) and the obligatory Will Smith feature* was Focus. I also watched a documentary/ reality show that investigated whether or not certain skin care products really work, and listened to a Cocteau Twins album.
On the way back, the Will Smith move was Collateral Beauty. Since there were no Taken movies, I tried to watch a Liam Neeson film called The Commuter, but I bailed after 20 minutes. Also watched Oceans 12, Oceans 13, an episode of Cesar to the Rescue, and listened to Kraftwerk Man Machine.
Helpful Hint: If you want to fall asleep on a plane, watch the 3-hour Westminster Kennel Club coverage.
*Will Smith movies are perfect for airplanes, since they are usually just good enough to hold my interest, but not so great that I feel that I might miss some nuanced dialogue under the roar of the engines.
How did you get around?
Official taxis, unofficial taxis (aka A Guy With A Car), marshrutkas, buses and subways.
What the heck is a marshrutka?
A mini-bus that seats between 16 and 26 people. It is the unofficial intercity transport of the country.
Is Georgia popular with tourists?
Holy Crap, is it ever! Busloads of them everywhere. Mostly Russians, followed by Chinese, then Germans, and then a smattering of "miscellaneous".
Did you learn the language?
I learned the alphabet (which was very helpful at bus stations) and a few key phrases. Apparently, not many other travellers do (especially Russians, we were told), so people were delighted with a simple "good morning!" or "delicious!".
I didn't get too far into the language because of the ejective consonants ( P, K and T) that were very challenging to master.
I wish I had known about the Georgian alphabet in grade school; it would have made a great secret code for passing notes.
Did you learn the National Anthem?
Yes! Because Georgia was our Plan B for last year's Iran trip, I actually learned it in the Spring of 2017, and I have been singing it every day on my morning walk.
I had the honor of singing it with Nukri, a former colonel in the Georgian army who has fought in three wars.
How big is Georgia?
About 1/3 the size of Minnesota https://mapfight.appspot.com/us.mn-vs-ge/minnesota-us-georgia-size-comparison
Why don't you tell anyone your destination before your trips?
I have been blessed with numerous family, friends, co-workers and clients who are very interested in my travels. It's not so much that I don't want anyone to know where we are, but more that I don't want to repeat the Where, the When and the Why 50+ times.
Also, I don't want anyone else's filters, positive or negative, to influence my own experience. I enjoy myself so much more when there are no expectations beyond knowing that I will be taking my daily walk somewhere other than the street on which I live.
How much did it cost?
Per person:
Airfare 823.36
Primeclass lounge pass 146.96 (worth every penny)
Lodging 714.40
Food, beverages & treats 605.55
Ground transportation 425.81
Admission to museums, caves, etc 72.66
Misc (pay toilets, toothbrush, etc) 2.40
Souvenirs 18.54
Grand total 3633.04
Total per person 1816.52
Total per person per day 86.50
Any surprises?
The pillows! Every place we stayed had the most amazing goose down pillows. I swear, they each weighed about 15 pounds. I am not exaggerating.
Lots of Nissan LEAFs!
Also, I was surprised at the ubiquity of Wendy's and Dunkin Donuts. I knew that there were a couple of them in Tbilisi, but I had no idea that They. Were. Everywhere.
They have many flavors of Frosty, but not chocolate, which is probably the only thing that I have purchased at Wendy's in my life.
Any highlights?
The area around Mestia was great. Our day of attractions near Kutaisi was fun. Nukri's GuestHouse was enchanting.
I think my favorite thing was our 5:30 a.m. walk around Tbilisi on the first day of the trip.
How are the drivers?
Skillful and determined. They will generally stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. They will also wholeheartedly participate in the national pastime of passing as many other vehicles as humanly possible. I don't think there is a phrase in Georgian that translates to "safe following distance".
Did you drink the tap water?
Yup! The whole time. I also brought along plenty of probiotics.
To prepare for your trip, for six weeks, you and Bhob trained twice weekly on the stairs that go from from the JJ Hill House to United Hospital. Was it worthwhile?
Oh my gosh, Yes!! The original intention was to prepare for the mountain hiking. Little did we know that as soon as we arrived in Tbilisi, our first steps would be up four flights of stairs to our apartment, and that the building itself was a steep climb up from the main street.
Who took care of Stinkerbell?
The first two weeks were handled by my friends/neighbors Rob and Jennifer. My dear nephew Bryan was the closer.
I learned the alphabet (which was very helpful at bus stations) and a few key phrases. Apparently, not many other travellers do (especially Russians, we were told), so people were delighted with a simple "good morning!" or "delicious!".
I didn't get too far into the language because of the ejective consonants ( P, K and T) that were very challenging to master.
I wish I had known about the Georgian alphabet in grade school; it would have made a great secret code for passing notes.
Do most people speak English?
Nope! Many ( but not all) of our hosts did, as did an occasional restaurant employee, but not taxi or marshrutka drivers. Most people in shops and on the street didn't speak it either.
Most road signs were in Georgian and English.
Most road signs were in Georgian and English.
If anyone spoke a second language, it was usually Russian.
Did you learn the National Anthem?
Yes! Because Georgia was our Plan B for last year's Iran trip, I actually learned it in the Spring of 2017, and I have been singing it every day on my morning walk.
I had the honor of singing it with Nukri, a former colonel in the Georgian army who has fought in three wars.
How big is Georgia?
About 1/3 the size of Minnesota https://mapfight.appspot.com/us.mn-vs-ge/minnesota-us-georgia-size-comparison
Why don't you tell anyone your destination before your trips?
I have been blessed with numerous family, friends, co-workers and clients who are very interested in my travels. It's not so much that I don't want anyone to know where we are, but more that I don't want to repeat the Where, the When and the Why 50+ times.
Also, I don't want anyone else's filters, positive or negative, to influence my own experience. I enjoy myself so much more when there are no expectations beyond knowing that I will be taking my daily walk somewhere other than the street on which I live.
How much did it cost?
Per person:
Airfare 823.36
Primeclass lounge pass 146.96 (worth every penny)
Lodging 714.40
Food, beverages & treats 605.55
Ground transportation 425.81
Admission to museums, caves, etc 72.66
Misc (pay toilets, toothbrush, etc) 2.40
Souvenirs 18.54
Grand total 3633.04
Total per person 1816.52
Total per person per day 86.50
Any surprises?
The pillows! Every place we stayed had the most amazing goose down pillows. I swear, they each weighed about 15 pounds. I am not exaggerating.
Lots of Nissan LEAFs!
Also, I was surprised at the ubiquity of Wendy's and Dunkin Donuts. I knew that there were a couple of them in Tbilisi, but I had no idea that They. Were. Everywhere.
They have many flavors of Frosty, but not chocolate, which is probably the only thing that I have purchased at Wendy's in my life.
 |
| Would you like booze with your Frosty? |
Any highlights?
The area around Mestia was great. Our day of attractions near Kutaisi was fun. Nukri's GuestHouse was enchanting.
I think my favorite thing was our 5:30 a.m. walk around Tbilisi on the first day of the trip.
How did the One Bag strategy go this time?
Great! I actually wore every single item of clothing I brought. I might have even included an additional pair of thick socks to wear with the hiking boots ( which ended up being the heroes of the trip).
And if there is any questions as to why I make my one bag a backpack...
How are the drivers?
Skillful and determined. They will generally stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. They will also wholeheartedly participate in the national pastime of passing as many other vehicles as humanly possible. I don't think there is a phrase in Georgian that translates to "safe following distance".
Did you see any bicyclists?
A few. They did not look happy. The roads have no shoulders, the whole country is very hilly and most drivers are focused primarily on passing the next car, not on watching the side of the road. I wouldn't bike there.
Did you drink the tap water?
Yup! The whole time. I also brought along plenty of probiotics.
For someone who's " not much of a drinker", you sure do enjoy your backyard hooch.
Yes. Yes I do.
I appreciate its straightforwardness. Whether it's Georgian chacha, Albanian raki or Italian grappa, it's usually the cheapest thing on the menu and it gets the job done without any pretentious adjectives.
To prepare for your trip, for six weeks, you and Bhob trained twice weekly on the stairs that go from from the JJ Hill House to United Hospital. Was it worthwhile?
Oh my gosh, Yes!! The original intention was to prepare for the mountain hiking. Little did we know that as soon as we arrived in Tbilisi, our first steps would be up four flights of stairs to our apartment, and that the building itself was a steep climb up from the main street.
Are you happy with the length of your stay?
To be quite honest, 15 days would have been ideal. We were ready to go home by then.
I am going to put all the blame on Vanilla Sky Airlines for any disintegration that occurred.
However, I'm glad we saw everything we did, as it removed any potential regrets about what we might have missed. It definitely eliminated any desire to return any time soon. It's not that we didn't have a great time, but you know what they say about "too much of a good thing".....
Who took care of Stinkerbell?
The first two weeks were handled by my friends/neighbors Rob and Jennifer. My dear nephew Bryan was the closer.
Did you get any clothespins for your collection?
Nope. The only ones I ran across were from China, and I thought "why bother?"
However, I did get another mug for my dictator collection.
Nope. The only ones I ran across were from China, and I thought "why bother?"
However, I did get another mug for my dictator collection.
